Land of the Buddha

The contrast between ancient traditions and a 21st-century democracy is most visible in Ulaanbaatar, where traditional gers and Buddhist monasteries sit side by side with modern high-rises.

Upon arrival at the airport you are welcomed by your Mongolian guide and transferred to a centrally located hotel within walking distance of various museums and shops.

(Shangri-La Hotel - Deluxe Room)

Begin the day with a visit to Gandan Monastery, the seat of Buddhism in Mongolia. Although Buddhist monasteries were either destroyed or converted into museums during the Stalinist purges of the 1930s, Gandan Monastery continued to operate as a showpiece for government officials. However, in spite of the government’s efforts to suppress Buddhism and other religious beliefs, Mongolia’s spirituality persisted and a significant resurgence of Buddhism began in 1990 when Mongolia became a democracy.

Monasteries across the country are again opening their doors to worshippers and the few lamas who survived the purges are training a new generation. Extensive reconstruction and renovation projects are underway and priceless artifacts that were hidden for safekeeping by nomadic families are now being returned to monasteries.

After visiting the temples, drive through downtown Ulaanbaatar to the National History Museum for an excellent overview of Mongolia’s history and culture.

In the afternoon, we will have behind-the-scenes access to the dinosaur hall of the Mongolian Paleontological Laboratory for a private tour of the space. In the evening, enjoy a welcome dinner. Overnight at hotel.

(Shangri-La Hotel - Deluxe Room; B, L, D)

In the afternoon, fly over vast steppe to the Gobi (1.5 hours), Mongolia’s southernmost province of semi-arid desert. Upon arrival in Dalanzadgad, your local driver and jeep will be waiting for you. Contrary to the sameness that the word ‘desert’ suggests, the Gobi is a fascinating and diverse region, and includes sites of some of the most important paleontological discoveries of the 20th century.

For the next few days, explore the stunning landscapes of the Gobi, habitat for Bactrian camels, Argali mountain sheep, goitered gazelle, Golden Eagles, Saker Falcons, jerboas (similar to kangaroo rats), and many endemic reptiles. The Gobi is also home to some of the Northern Hemisphere’s most rare and elusive mammals, such as the dhole, snow leopard, wild camel, and Gobi bear. Upon arrival, drive to the Three Camel Lodge. Dinner and overnight at the Three Camel Lodge.

(Three Camel Lodge - Deluxe Ger; B, L, D)

Wake early to the sight of the sun rising over the vast Gobi landscape. After breakfast, drive to Tugregiin Shiree, the site where the famous “Fighting Dinosaurs” fossil of a Protoceratops and Velociraptor locked in combat was discovered in the 1970s. Explore this white-sandstone escarpment and the nearby sand dunes.

After lunch, visit one of the local families for a hands-on overview of nomadic culture, including the making of dairy products, daily chores of tending animals, and work around the ger. Later, drive to the Havsgait petroglyph site, where a hike up the side of a local mountain will expand onto this picturesque view of hundreds of stone carvings from the Bronze Age.

(Three Camel Lodge - Deluxe Ger; B, L, D)

In the morning, drive to the Moltsog Els sand dunes, one of the few regions of the Gobi covered by sand dunes, and explore the area on foot. There may also be an opportunity to explore the surroundings on the back of a two-humped Bactrian camel.

In the afternoon, drive to the legendary Flaming Cliffs (1 hour), named for the red-orange sandstone that glows brilliantly at sunrise and sunset. It was here in 1923 that Dr. Roy Chapman Andrews and his exploration team from the American Museum of Natural History found the first nest of dinosaur eggs the world had ever seen. To the trained eye, the ancient formations of the Flaming Cliffs are rich with fossils, and paleontological expeditions continue to make significant discoveries at this site. We will enjoy the Gobi sunset at this magnificent vista.

(Three Camel Lodge - Deluxe Ger; B, L, D)

In the morning, transfer to the local airport for a return flight to Ulaanbaatar. Upon arrival, visit the Bogd Khan Palace, home of Mongolia’s last theocrat, Bogd Jabtzan Damba Hutagt VIII, which displays elaborate ceremonial robes andother personal effects of Mongolia’s “8th Living Buddha.”

In the afternoon, explore the 976 Art Gallery under the guidance of the gallery founder, Ms. Gantuya. Situated in the center of Ulaanbaatar, the 976 Art Gallery was founded in April 2012 and regularly attracts a hip young crowd of intellectuals by supporting and promoting Mongolian artists. At 400 square meters, the gallery can display over 100 paintings, sculptures, and installations at any given time, and its frequent showcases featuring local artists’ varied contemporary collections are among the best in the nation.

In the evening, enjoy a traditional Mongolian performance featuring throat singing and folk dances followed by a farewell dinner.

(Shangri-La Hotel - Deluxe Room; B, L, D)

In the morning, transfer to the airport for your flight to Bangkok. On arrival, take the complimentary shuttle service to the hotel.

(Novotel Suvarnabhumi Airport Hotel; B)

In the morning, take the hotel shuttle service for your flight to Paro. On a clear day, there are spectacular views of Bhutan’s snowy peaks from flights approaching Paro, a fittingly dramatic introduction to the Himalayan kingdom of Bhutan. Upon your arrival your Bhutanese guide will greet you. Next, depart for the capital city of Thimphu. It is an hour drive, and en route you will visit a 15th-century iron bridge built by Buddhist yogi Thang Tong Gyalpo.

After lunch, drive up to “Buddha Point” to see the world’s tallest seated Buddha statue. Next, we visit the National Textile Museum and the newly opened Royal Textile Academy, which displays traditional methods of weaving. You will have a better understanding of the history and art of weaving in Bhutan after exploring these fascinating sites.

Next, visit Tashichho Dzong, the “fortress of glorious religion,” and seat of Bhutan’s national government. The fortress you see today is not the 17th-century original, which was destroyed by fire and subsequently abandoned in 1771. The present structure was completely renovated by King Jigme Dorji Wangchuk when he anointed Thimphu as the national capital in 1962, and all refurbishment was done in traditional Bhutanese fashion – by hand and without nails or blueprints. Today, Tashichho Dzong houses the royal throne room, the King’s offices, and the Home Affairs and Finance ministries. From outside the Dzong you will be able to see the Parliament Building across the river; it is a smaller replica of the Dzong and houses the democratic parliament and prime minister’s office of Bhutan.

In the evening, enjoy dinner at the hotel. Overnight at the hotel.

(Zhiwa Ling Ascent; B, L, D)

After breakfast, visit the School of 13 Traditional Arts & Crafts. Here you will see students at work practicing the various disciplines.

Next is the drive up to Sangaygang Viewpoint (Radio Tower) to get a birds’-eye view of the capital town. On the way, stop at the Takin Preserve. The national animal of Bhutan, the Takin is a large and somewhat clumsy animal. According to legend, it was created when the famous monk Lama Drukpa Kuenley, more popularly known to Westerners as the Divine Madman for his eccentric ways of teaching Buddhism, visited Bhutan, feasted on a goat and a cow, and then combined their skeletons, bringing a new creature to life. Drive to the viewpoint. From here, there is an easy and gradual 20-minute hike through the forest to Wangditsay Monastery. You will be rewarded with a beautiful view of the Tashichho Dzong below.

(Zhiwa Ling Ascent; B, L, D)

Drive from Thimphu to Punakha (approximately 3.5 hours); it is a pleasant drive through natural forests of pine, cedar, and wild rhododendrons. Punakha (1,400 m. above sea level) is the old capital of Bhutan and still the winter residence of the Clergy.

Along the way, stop at Dochu La Pass (3,050 m. above sea level), a must-see for its photographic possibilities (especially on a clear day). The view here is stunning, with a 180-degree-view of the eastern Himalayan mountain range. Pause here for a while and have a cup of tea or coffee if you wish. Dochu La is marked by a large array of prayer flags and a rhododendron forest surrounding 108 chortens, or stupas, dedicated as a tribute to the selfless service and visionary leadership of the fourth King, His Majesty Jigme Singye Wangchuck, the founder of “Gross National Happiness.”

You will pass by numerous traditional villages dotted with farmhouses. Before reaching Punakha, stop to visit Chimmi Lhakhang- the temple of the famed Phallus. The temple was built by Lama Drukpa Kuenley, the Divine Madman. It is believed that childless women who visit the temple will conceive after receiving the wang (blessings) from the Divine Madman’s archery set and wooden phallus. The gradual walk to the temple from the main road is interesting as you walk through a traditional village and rice paddy fields.

If time allows, visit Sangchhe Dorji Lhuendrup, Lhakhang Nunnery, perched on a ridge surrounded by pine trees overlooking the Punakha and Wangdiphodrang Valley. The temple was built by Yap Ugyen Dorji, grandfather of His Majesty the 5th King of Bhutan (present). It houses a 14-foot bronze statue of Avalokiteshvara, made by local Bhutanese artisans, the biggest bronze Avalokiteshvara in the country. The temple complex also houses a permanent higher learning and meditation center for nuns, where – apart from religious trainings –tailoring, embroidery, statue making, and thangka painting.

(Dhensa Hotel; B, L, D)

Take a short hike northwards (45 minutes) towards Khamsum Yuelay Namgyal Chorten, a stupa built in honor of the present King. The greenery around you during the walk is stunning, as is the view from the Stupa point.

Next, visit the historic Punakha Dzong – Punthang Dechen Phodrang, the Place of Great Happiness – a fortress located at the confluence of a male and female river. The Po Chhu and Mo Chhu, you will notice, have waters of two different colors. The dzong served as the administrative and religious center of Bhutan till the mid 1950s. Considered the most beautiful of all dzongs in Bhutan, the Punakha Dzong houses several important artifacts such as the Shabdrung’s mummified body and the Ranjung Kharsapani, believed to have miraculously emerged from the vertebrae of Tsangpa Gyarey – the founder of the Drukpa School – as he was being cremated. Close to the main dzong is the “Little Dzong” – Dzongchhung.

(Dhensa Hotel; B, L, D)

After breakfast you will depart for Paro. Paro (2,400 m. above sea level), one of the biggest valleys in Bhutan, is dotted with traditional farmhouses and has around 155 temples and monasteries.

After lunch, visit the National Museum, housed in the Taa Dzong (watchtower). Here, an intriguing collection of artifacts provides a wonderful introduction to the rich culture and heritage of the Kingdom. Just a short walk downhill, visit the 17th-century fortress, Paro Dzong – a fine example of Bhutanese historic architecture. Today it houses the office of the Governor and the Clergy. From the Dzong the tour crosses Nyamai Zampa, a traditional cantilever bridge, and then you will drive to the town’s temple – built in 1525 – to view ancient wall paintings.

Next, visit the ruins of Drukyul Dzong (fortress of the victorious Drukpas). This Dzong was built in 1647 by Shabdrung Ngawang Namgyal to mark his victory over invading Tibetan forces. The Dzong was destroyed by a fire in 1951. On a clear day, you can see Mount Jhomolhari. On the drive back towards Paro town you will get a view of the Tiger’s Nest – Taktsang, perched atop a cliff at 9700 ft./2950 m.

(Zhiwa Ling Heritage; B, L)

The hike on the final day is a visit to the iconic Taktsang Monastery, built around a cave in which Guru Padsambhava meditated for roughly three months. The hike up to the viewpoint is thrilling and worthwhile. The main temple was destroyed by fire in 1998 and was reconstructed and consecrated in 2005. At the main scenic overlook is a restaurant where there is a clear view of the monastery and you can eat a buffet lunch. The walk up to the scenic overlook should take you about 1.5 hours and an additional hour is required to reach the monastery. The way down is much easier and takes less time.

(Zhiwa Ling Heritage; B, L, D)

Transfer to Paro Airport for your flight to Bangkok.

(B)